**Update: 3rd January 2017**
Bought Victron Direct USB cable. See https://calstock.org.uk/elf.php/2001/01/01/rolls-batteries?disp=single&title=rolls-batteries&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1&redir=no&c_paged=24#comments
**Update: 5th June 2016**
Making sense of charging algorithms: https://calstock.org.uk/elf.php/2001/01/01/victron-2?disp=single&title=victron-2&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1&redir=no&c_paged=4#c114 ::See Comment 4
Received second Victron but I've little desire to install it as part of a second installation or as a replacement for the original unit although its fuse has blown twice.
**19th Dec 2014 2300 hours**
Have decided to install the new Victron as ongoing problems with the original. This one seems fine in that the green LED is on constant as specified in the manual. Also both load and battery voltages are the same unlike the one removed which finally led to its removal.
The installation now is two 250w REC panels connected in parallel via one Victron 75|15 to two Rolls 120Ah batteries also connected in parallel.
**20th Dec 2014 1100 hours**
Sadly on arising late today I noticed the green LED is flashing. So let me summarise the problems to date.
This second unit smells once out of the box. I put this down to poor manufacturing process where the resin mixed has left a lot of volatile gases exuding, which wiil undoubtedly become more prevalent as it warms under full working conditions.
I doubt Jaggat at Victron is aware of such so his advise me to return it as a consequence of smell may be based on poor assumptions on his part, however given his reluctance to discuss my concerns in depth it is not surprising.
**The green LED**
So now this second unit has a flashing LED when according to the manual it shouldn't, another matter Jaggat was unwilling to investigate.
**21st Dec 2014**
Just got home after leaving at 1515 yesterday and the greenLED is still flashing. So apart from the time when I connected it on Thursday until the next morning I haven't noticed a second when it isn't flashing and to remind those who are interested, the manual states that a green flashing LED indicates the unit is on BatteryLife algorithm, which according to the bridge it is not.
**14:15** greenLED still flashing
**22nd Dec 2014**
**14:00:**both LEDs still flashing and as the sky has been overcast for some six days I understand the yellowLED is flashing twice a second indicating the unit is channelling maximum charge to the batteries. The greenLED should be constant.
**23rd Dec 2014**
**14:00:**both LEDs still flashing
**24th Dec 2014**
**21:00 yesterday:** power went off, as voltage dropped to 11.8
**14:00 yesterday:** power restored as voltage reached 13.7 not 14 as specified.
**15:00 yesterday:** with voltage at 13.6 and plenty of sun I decided to use another computer that is set up to print. It requires a dc-dc converter from 12v to 20v. When I plugged it in all power went off but came on again as I immediately unplugged it. Clearly the voltage hadn't dropped to 11.8 a) as it was unlikely given the sun and previous voltage reading and charge and also if it was due to low voltage then it would not have come back on until voltage was higher.
There was little option but to try it again and the same happened.
I decide to try a third time but not to unplug it immediately the power went off, and it came back on with the converter working.
Have a few ideas and may post them later, but it is worth noting that I had used this power unit on the first Victron without such an event, which is working as it should and what is the function in each that responded respectively?
The main purpose of equalisation is to balance cells that may have developed different capacities which limits the battery's capacity and encourages sulfation. However equalisation or more properly, charging at high levels, can breakdown sulfation.
> Temperature vs. Capacity - Flooded Lead Acid Batteries
Modified on: Fri, 29 Aug, 2014 at 12:21 PM
Electrolyte : Here is a copy of info from: http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/faq/
> 9. Can a flooded battery freeze?
The only way that a battery can freeze is if it is left in a state of partial or complete discharge. As the state of charge in a battery decreases, the electrolyte becomes more like water and the freezing temperature increases. The freezing temperature of the electrolyte in a fully charged battery is -92º F (-69º C).
>At a 40% state of charge, electrolyte will freeze if the temperature reaches approximately 16º F (-9º C).
This is a copy of info at http://support.rollsbattery.com/support/solutions/articles/10376-deficit-cycling
> Deficit Cycling
>Modified on: Tue, 26 Aug, 2014 at 4:22 PM
>Rolls batteries have been designed to provide many cycles and therefore long life. This long life, however, is dependent on the correct charging regime.
To fully charge a lead acid battery, more ampere hours must be returned to it than have been drawn from it. This is not always possible in Renewable Energy applications as systems may rely solely on the Sun and Wind without backup power (generator/charger). In these instances the battery may not receive a full charge before it is discharged again. If this deficit is not corrected the battery will eventually sulphate and its capacity will deteriorate. To lessen these symptoms it is essential the battery is returned to a fully charged state at least once a month. The battery’s state of charge (SOC) can be checked using a combination of its voltage and specific gravity.
>If the batteries do not respond to normal charging, a course of equalization* will be required. This is in essence controlled overcharging in order to return the acid back into the electrolyte. Given that the acid is more dense than the water, no noticeable increase in the specific gravity will be noted until the gassing voltage has been reached (2.4VPC) and the two start to diffuse.
>NOTE: Hydrocaps must be removed during equalization.
I have just bought an inverter form Wind and Sun UK, I called them for two reasons
1) to find out what current the inverter takes when it is switched off and
2) to say the manual was disappointing
1) how does switching work as it isn't a power switch that physically breaks and joins the 200A input cables,
i) What is the rating of the dc input cables?
ii) How are the input DC cables connected, I imagine there must be some loss?
iii) Does the power switch, in the off position, just a break in power to a relay, that when on enables the dc circuit to work and connects the DC input.
2) The manual says very little, maybe there is little to say, but it could state
i) the load in the off, as above,
ii) the image in the index is very poor and hardly usable and the one on your website, which isn't mentioned in the manual isn't much better. Could you send me a detailed image or is their one on the website. All I could find is a version of the manual; which I made a screen shot of and enlarged.
A third matter
i) The UK 230v socket is upside down and the mains cable blocks easy access to the power switch.
ii)Your image show it the correct way.
Can I unscrew the body and correct this?
iii) plus the socket isn't screwed in place and moves around a bit
4. Finally I am disappointed it is made in China, prior to purchase I though it would be India like the MPPT 75|15
Cc Wind and Sun