**30th April** :: ML V=12.69 :: No load over night ABS for 1h
**29th April** :: ML V=12.51
**28th April** :: ML V=12.54 :: ABS for 2h although as low as 14.6 sometimes ??
**27th April** :: ML V=12.60 :: ABS for 1h
**26th April** :: ML V=12.46 :: ABS for 1h 14m
**25th April** :: ML V=12.43 :: ABS for 1h 28m
**24th April** :: ML V=12.51 :: Router on all night
**23rd April** :: ML V=12.51 :: Camera on all night
**22nd April** :: ML V=12.63 :: Topped up electrolyte which in some cells was just showing the plates. Then it seemed the charge voltage dropped with the same current maybe as the resistance increased due to more water.
**21st April** :: ML V=12.62 :: Router and camera on all night (0.9A)
**20th April** :: ML V=12.64 :: Router and camera on all night (0.9A)
**19th April** :: ML V=12.78 :: 10am GMT Float @14.05V
**18th April** :: ML V=12.55
**17th April** :: ML V=12.87 :: T=150Wh Low for a 13h 28m day
**16th April** :: ML V=12.87 :: Note an average of 405Wh keeps the ML at 12.87
**15th April** :: ML V=12.87
**14th April** :: ML V=12.91 :: Required 520Wh or 10Ah per battery from the previous day to get this ML figure.
**13th April** :: ML V=12.80
**12th April** :: ML V=12.80
**11th April** :: ML V=12.78
**10th April** :: ML V=12.91 :: 09:30 V=14 A=0.8 13.84V at 0.4A
**9th April** :: ML V=12.91 Away all day and night . On Fl for 7.25hrs
**8th April** :: ML V=12.75
**7th April** :: ML V=12.82 :; **08:30** Y=10W (after 3 hours of daylight)
**6th April** :: ML V=12.72 with router on all night
**5th April** :: ML V=12.89 :: **09:22 V=15.46 ~ Ab**
**4th April** :: ML V=12.82
**3rd April** :: ML V=12.95 :: Used Inverter with angle grinder for 30min :: Y=1.07KWh
**2nd April** :: ML V=12.59 :: **12:30** V=13.55 A=5 W=80 Y=160 :: **15:51** V=14 A=4.8 W=68 :: **19:30** V=13.3 A=0.1
**1st April** :: ML V=12.74
I've had contact with Wind and Sun from the late 80's when I first researched suppliers for a wind generator and solar panels. The panels eventually came direct from BP and have lasted well except for physical damage. So I felt it was time to honour the contact when |I wanted a new setup. All the current one is from them (solar panels and cables, batteries and controllers) I hate to call the Victron Blue Solar MPPT a charger as it falls far short being based on the vagrancies of sunlight. More on that on the Victron critique.
**Update: 3rd January 2017**
Bought Victron Direct USB cable. See https://calstock.org.uk/elf.php/2001/01/01/rolls-batteries?disp=single&title=rolls-batteries&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1&redir=no&c_paged=24#comments
**Update: 5th June 2016**
Making sense of charging algorithms: https://calstock.org.uk/elf.php/2001/01/01/victron-2?disp=single&title=victron-2&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1&redir=no&c_paged=4#c114 ::See Comment 4
Received second Victron but I've little desire to install it as part of a second installation or as a replacement for the original unit although its fuse has blown twice.
**19th Dec 2014 2300 hours**
Have decided to install the new Victron as ongoing problems with the original. This one seems fine in that the green LED is on constant as specified in the manual. Also both load and battery voltages are the same unlike the one removed which finally led to its removal.
The installation now is two 250w REC panels connected in parallel via one Victron 75|15 to two Rolls 120Ah batteries also connected in parallel.
**20th Dec 2014 1100 hours**
Sadly on arising late today I noticed the green LED is flashing. So let me summarise the problems to date.
This second unit smells once out of the box. I put this down to poor manufacturing process where the resin mixed has left a lot of volatile gases exuding, which wiil undoubtedly become more prevalent as it warms under full working conditions.
I doubt Jaggat at Victron is aware of such so his advise me to return it as a consequence of smell may be based on poor assumptions on his part, however given his reluctance to discuss my concerns in depth it is not surprising.
**The green LED**
So now this second unit has a flashing LED when according to the manual it shouldn't, another matter Jaggat was unwilling to investigate.
**21st Dec 2014**
Just got home after leaving at 1515 yesterday and the greenLED is still flashing. So apart from the time when I connected it on Thursday until the next morning I haven't noticed a second when it isn't flashing and to remind those who are interested, the manual states that a green flashing LED indicates the unit is on BatteryLife algorithm, which according to the bridge it is not.
**14:15** greenLED still flashing
**22nd Dec 2014**
**14:00:**both LEDs still flashing and as the sky has been overcast for some six days I understand the yellowLED is flashing twice a second indicating the unit is channelling maximum charge to the batteries. The greenLED should be constant.
**23rd Dec 2014**
**14:00:**both LEDs still flashing
**24th Dec 2014**
**21:00 yesterday:** power went off, as voltage dropped to 11.8
**14:00 yesterday:** power restored as voltage reached 13.7 not 14 as specified.
**15:00 yesterday:** with voltage at 13.6 and plenty of sun I decided to use another computer that is set up to print. It requires a dc-dc converter from 12v to 20v. When I plugged it in all power went off but came on again as I immediately unplugged it. Clearly the voltage hadn't dropped to 11.8 a) as it was unlikely given the sun and previous voltage reading and charge and also if it was due to low voltage then it would not have come back on until voltage was higher.
There was little option but to try it again and the same happened.
I decide to try a third time but not to unplug it immediately the power went off, and it came back on with the converter working.
Have a few ideas and may post them later, but it is worth noting that I had used this power unit on the first Victron without such an event, which is working as it should and what is the function in each that responded respectively?
The main purpose of equalisation is to balance cells that may have developed different capacities which limits the battery's capacity and encourages sulfation. However equalisation or more properly, charging at high levels, can breakdown sulfation.
> Temperature vs. Capacity - Flooded Lead Acid Batteries
Modified on: Fri, 29 Aug, 2014 at 12:21 PM
Electrolyte : Here is a copy of info from: http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/faq/
> 9. Can a flooded battery freeze?
The only way that a battery can freeze is if it is left in a state of partial or complete discharge. As the state of charge in a battery decreases, the electrolyte becomes more like water and the freezing temperature increases. The freezing temperature of the electrolyte in a fully charged battery is -92º F (-69º C).
>At a 40% state of charge, electrolyte will freeze if the temperature reaches approximately 16º F (-9º C).